Walk Like A Parisian

There is nothing better than exploring the city on your own. As the old song say, Paris is
at its best in springtime, even if it is sometimes a little wet. In winter Paris, has all sorts
of cultural events going on, while in summer the weather is warm and lazy, sometimes
sizzling. In August, when Parisians, flee for the beaches to the west and south, many
restaurateurs, lock up and leave town too, but this is changing rapidly and you'll find
considerably more places open in summer than even a decade ago.

Consider some of these "do it yourself" morning to evening tours:

Head first to the Tour Eiffel: morning (or late evening) is the best time to avoid the
crowds. The most thrilling approach is via Champ de Mars. Afterwards, tour the Seine
on the Bateaux Mouches; these boats depart regularly from place de l'Alma. From here,
walk or take the metro to the Arc de Triomphe; from the top there's a great view of the
boulevards emanating from L'Etoile and the noble vistas extending to the Louvre and La
Defense. Then work your way along the Champs Elysèes, across Place de la
Concorde and the Jardin des Tuileries to the Louvre. Don't visit the museum now,
wait until the next morning, when it's less crowded.

Get to the Louvre first thing in the morning (closed on Tuesdays) early to avoid the
crowds; in one morning you'll only be able to see part of the museum, it's that big. After
lunch, wander along the ritzy rue St-Honorè. Here you'll find the French President's
home, the Palais de l'Elysèe (closed to the public), and the Neoclassical Eglise de la
Madeleine. For good shopping and a look at Haussmann's 19th-century Paris and the
famous Opèra Garnier, join up with the Grand Boulevards. Spend the late afternoon
getting a sense of Paris's village-like character by exploring Montmartre. Either walk
(heading north along rue du Faubourg Montmartre to rue Notre-Dame de Lorette to rue
Fontaine to place Blanche) or take the mètro to the Pigalle or Blanche stop. On
boulevard de Clinchy you'll find the famous Moulin Rouge. Continue up into Montmartre,
via place des Abbesses. On this square are two Art Nouveau gems: the church of St-
Jean de Montmartre, and the Art Nouveau Guimard entrance to the Abbesses mètro
station. From here, walk through the winding, hilly streets to place du Tertre, and then on
to Sacrè-Coeur, where there's a tremendous view of the city below.

Start the morning admiring the Impressionists in the Musèe d'Orsay (closed on
Monday); arrive early to avoid the crowds. Then head to Notre-Dame Cathedral, perhaps
the most inspiring monument in Paris. In the afternoon explore the Latin Quarter, using
the Panthèon dome as a landmark. Take time to relax in the Jardin du Luxembourg or
sip coffee in a neighborhood cafè. Begin your day at the Musèe d'Orsay, where many of
the most famous Impressionist paintings in the world are on view. Pay your respects to
Napolèn at the nearby church of the Hotel des Invalides and then to the great sculptor
Rodin, at the Musèe Rodin, housed in one of the prettiest hotels particuliers in the city.
Head east along the boulevard St-Germain to the picturesque place Furstenberg to visit
the Musèe Delacroix, the haunt of another great artist and set on gorgeous place
Furstenberg. South a few blocks is the Jardin du Luxembourg, perfect for a sylvan time-
out. If you're not tired yet, stop in at the extraordinary Musèe National du Moyen-Age,
which graces the time-stained Hptel de Cluny.

First thing in morning, enjoy the romantic Ile St-Louis, the little island sitting next to the
larger Ile de la Citè in the Seine. Although there are no major sights to see here, you'll
find an enchanting neighborhood that has more than a touch of the time machine to it.
Cross over the Seine to the Marais, one of the city's most venerable quarters, studded
with great Baroque and Rococo mansions, many of which are now museums, including
the Musèe Picasso. Nearby is another mecca for modern-art lovers, the Centre
Beaubourg, although those with more traditional tastes will make a beeline for the
Musèe Carnavalet (the Paris History Museum). Then, to give your less-than-bionic feet a
well-deserved rest, head to the magnificent 17th-century square place des Vosges to
enjoy sunset on one of its park benches and dinner at one of the casual cafès lining the
square.

Treat yourself to a vacation from your Paris vacation by heading out for a day trip to
Versailles, built in bicep-flexing Baroque splendor. Don't forget to explore its vast park in
order to take in the intimate Petit Trianon and Hameau, which was Marie-Antoinette's toy
farm.

Trust me it's worth it; get up at dawn and hurry up to the Butte (mound) of Montmartre,
which graces a dramatic rise over the city. Get here to see the sun rise over the entire
city from your perch on place du Parvis, in front of the basilica of the Sacrè-Coeur. Track
the spirit of Toulouse-Lautrec through the streets and to the Musèe de Montmartre. In
the afternoon, descend back into the city to either attack some of the city's "other"
museums (the Musèe Cognacq-Jay and the Musèe Maillol), to explore Montparnasse,
or, for a unique grande finale to your trip, visit some "permanent" Parisians ensconced
in noble marble splendor at legendary Cemetery Père-Lachaise.
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