ARTICLES
Walk
Like A Parisian
There is nothing better than exploring the city
on your own. As the old song say, Paris is at its best in springtime, even if
it is sometimes a little wet. In winter Paris, has all sorts of cultural events
going on, while in summer the weather is warm and lazy, sometimes sizzling. In
August, when Parisians, flee for the beaches to the west and south, many restaurateurs,
lock up and leave town too, but this is changing rapidly and you'll find considerably
more places open in summer than even a decade ago.
Consider some of these
"do it yourself" morning to evening tours:
Head first to the Tour Eiffel:
morning (or late evening) is the best time to avoid the crowds. The most thrilling
approach is via Champ de Mars. Afterwards, tour the Seine on the Bateaux Mouches;
these boats depart regularly from place de l'Alma. From here, walk or take the
metro to the Arc de Triomphe; from the top there's a great view of the boulevards
emanating from L'Etoile and the noble vistas extending to the Louvre and La Defense.
Then work your way along the Champs Elysèes, across Place de la Concorde and the
Jardin des Tuileries to the Louvre. Don't visit the museum now, wait until the
next morning, when it's less crowded.
Get to the Louvre first thing in
the morning (closed on Tuesdays) early to avoid the crowds; in one morning you'll
only be able to see part of the museum, it's that big. After lunch, wander along
the ritzy rue St-Honorè. Here you'll find the French President's home, the Palais
de l'Elysèe (closed to the public), and the Neoclassical Eglise de la Madeleine.
For good shopping and a look at Haussmann's 19th-century Paris and the famous
Opèra Garnier, join up with the Grand Boulevards. Spend the late afternoon getting
a sense of Paris's village-like character by exploring Montmartre. Either walk
(heading north along rue du Faubourg Montmartre to rue Notre-Dame de Lorette to
rue Fontaine to place Blanche) or take the mètro to the Pigalle or Blanche stop.
On boulevard de Clinchy you'll find the famous Moulin Rouge. Continue up into
Montmartre,
via place des Abbesses. On this square are two Art Nouveau gems: the
church of St-Jean de Montmartre, and the Art Nouveau Guimard entrance to the Abbesses
mètro station. From here, walk through the winding, hilly streets to place du
Tertre, and then on to Sacrè-Coeur, where there's a tremendous view of the city
below.
Start the morning admiring the Impressionists in the Musèe d'Orsay
(closed on Monday); arrive early to avoid the crowds. Then head to Notre-Dame
Cathedral, perhaps the most inspiring monument in Paris. In the afternoon explore
the Latin Quarter, using the Panthèon dome as a landmark. Take time to relax in
the Jardin du Luxembourg or sip coffee in a neighborhood cafè. Begin your day
at the Musèe d'Orsay, where many of the most famous Impressionist paintings in
the world are on view. Pay your respects to Napolèn at the nearby church of the
Hotel des Invalides and then to the great sculptor Rodin, at the Musèe Rodin,
housed in one of the prettiest hotels particuliers in the city. Head east along
the boulevard St-Germain to the picturesque place Furstenberg to visit the Musèe
Delacroix, the haunt of another great artist and set on gorgeous place Furstenberg.
South a few blocks is the Jardin du Luxembourg, perfect for a sylvan time-out.
If you're not tired yet, stop in at the extraordinary Musèe National du Moyen-Age,
which graces the time-stained Hotel de Cluny.
First thing in morning,
enjoy the romantic Ile St-Louis, the little island sitting next to the larger
Ile de la Citè in the Seine. Although there are no major sights to see here, you'll
find an enchanting neighborhood that has more than a touch of the time machine
to it. Cross over the Seine to the Marais, one of the city's most venerable quarters,
studded with great Baroque and Rococo mansions, many of which are now museums,
including the Musèe Picasso. Nearby is another mecca for modern-art lovers, the
Centre Beaubourg, although those with more traditional tastes will make a beeline
for the Musèe Carnavalet (the Paris History Museum). Then, to give your less-than-bionic
feet a well-deserved rest, head to the magnificent 17th-century square place des
Vosges to enjoy sunset on one of its park benches and dinner at one of the casual
cafès lining the square.
Treat yourself to a vacation from your Paris
vacation by heading out for a day trip to Versailles, built in bicep-flexing Baroque
splendor. Don't forget to explore its vast park in order to take in the intimate
Petit Trianon and Hameau, which was Marie-Antoinette's toy farm.
Trust
me it's worth it; get up at dawn and hurry up to the Butte (mound) of Montmartre,
which graces a dramatic rise over the city. Get here to see the sun rise over
the entire city from your perch on place du Parvis, in front of the basilica of
the Sacrè-Coeur. Track the spirit of Toulouse-Lautrec through the streets and
to the Musèe de Montmartre. In the afternoon, descend back into the city to either
attack some of the city's "other" museums (the Musèe Cognacq-Jay and the Musèe
Maillol), to explore Montparnasse, or, for a unique grande finale to your trip,
visit some "permanent" Parisians ensconced in noble marble splendor at legendary
Cemetery Père-Lachaise.
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